Couples should head to Hualien County, one of Taiwan’s most romantic destinations, to experience indigenous culture and the natural beauty of Taroko Gorge, the world’s longest marble canyon. Take a hike in a national park (Hualien access to two: Taroko National Park and Yushan National Park), visit an indigenous Amis village and learn about their culinary and architectural traditions, or just relax on Qixingtan Beach and then have drinks in one of Hualien’s cocktail bars.
Route 1: Taroko National Park
Kayak the Qingshui Cliffs
What better way to view the gargantuan Qingshui Cliffs, then from the ocean directly below them? Between Spring and Autumn, the calmer waters of the Pacific allow for daily kayak tours below the Qingshui Cliffs. Of course, the best views are during sunrise—the sun slowly crests over the horizon first illuminating the clouds overhead, and then slowly strikes the mountains, illuminating their bare stone faces with a golden-orange glow. These trips are so picturesque that many tour operators offer professional photography services—don’t be surprised if you see instructors standing up to get the perfect shot for their clients.
Mt. Shimen
The Mt. Shimen hike, located just off the road at the top of Taroko Gorge, is also one Taiwan’s easiest and most accessible three-thousanders, also known as “Baiyue”—Taiwan has a list of 100 legendary and coveted summits over 3000 meters above sea level. Taiwanese mountaineers often make it a lifetime goal to summit all 100 peaks. The drive up to Wuling Area, where Shimen Mountain is located, is a 3-hour endeavor best enjoyed with a hired driver. The drive up passes through all of Taroko and offers exposed cliffs, misty jungle passes, occasional layers of clouds, and on good days, scenic panoramic views of the Central Mountain Range and craggy peaks of Qilai’s East Ridge.
Datong / Dali Village Hike
The Datong and Dali villages may not be the easiest, or the most dramatic of the hikes in Taroko, but they are the most charming. Datong and Dali are two of the last remaining inhabited Truku (indigenous) villages within Taroko Gorge. If attempting to visit the higher village of Datong, booking a guided tour is recommended. Tours usually spend the night in an indigenous lodge in Datong village, and wake up to view the sunrise from a nearby peak on day 2. However, those looking for luxury would be better off staying at Silk’s Place in Tianxiang just another 30 minutes into Taroko. For those with less time or aching muscles, Dali village can also be combined with the Shakadang Trail as a smaller loop.
Zhuilu Old Trail
There’s nothing like peering into Taroko, the world’s longest marble canyon, from a nearly 500 meter cliff directly above it. Zhuilu Old Trail is Taroko National Park’s most popular trail for good reason, it offers unparalleled views of this natural wonder. It’s not for the faint of heart though, the final half kilometer involves a ledge walk where the trail width varies between one meter or less in width. The steep but manageable climb begins by crossing a suspension bridge just adjacent to Taroko National Park’s famous Swallow Grotto trail, then quickly climbs steeply away from the Central Cross-Island Highway. Enjoy indigenous settlements, the ruins of Japanese police stations, and dramatic suspension bridges as you climb up to witness the best view that Taroko has to offer. Hikers need to apply for a permit 7 days prior to their hike date.
Route 2: Hualien City
Qixingtan Beach
Qixingtan Beach—originally “Malongayangay” in the indigenous Sakizaya language—is an expansive pebble beach which runs from the northern coast of Hualien City and follows the inward bend of the bay in the direction of Taroko. This expansive pebble beach offers excellent views of the Sanzhan Valley, Taroko National Park, Mt. Qingshui and the Qingshui Cliffs to the north. For early risers, Qixingtan Beach is one of the best and most dynamic places in Taiwan to view the sunrise. Visitors should keep in mind that swimming here is not recommended due to strong currents and an unforgiving shorebreak.
Liu Liu Sha Indigenous Restaurant
Liu Liu Sha Indigenous Restaurant has continuously won awards and media recognition for its innovative presentation, modest appearance and authentic service. Indigenous communities are very family oriented, and this restaurant is no exception. The restaurant was initially founded by a husband and wife duo; today, both of their daughters are involved in dish conception and all aspects of restaurant operation. Don’t be fooled by its meager appearance, you’re in for warm company and your stomach will be gracious for the fresh, delicious and healthy food.
Cocktail Bars: Ginsman and Yuan-Tsui
As a continuously growing tourist destination, the past 10 years have seen the emergence of a cocktail bar scene in Hualien. Currently, Ginsman, where there is no menu and drinks are imagined on demand, and indigenous bar Yuan-Tsui make for interesting options. Ginsman is run by veteran Hualien bartenders, expect friendliness and a comfortable atmosphere. Yuan-Tsui, on the other hand, is located in Dongdamen Tourist Night Market, and while it can be noisy and potentially crowded (depending the night), their inventive cocktails include locally foraged indigenous spices like maqaw, making them an interesting option to those looking to try out new flavors.
Route 3: East Rift Valley
The Tafalong Tribe
Tafalong, an Amis tribe in Guangfu in Southern Hualien, contains a special Amis house known as Kakita’an. It is the only Amis house known to contain decoratively carved wooden pillars. One street over is Aredetay, a boutique indigenous restaurant specializing in foraged flavors, fusion food, and excellent service. The interior is modern, comfortable and spacious, service is excellent and the local ingredients are delicious. A visit to this unaffected tribe is recommended for those in Taiwanese indigenous cuisine.
Cycling the East Rift Valley
Thru-biking in the East Rift Valley is a popular option with supported tours available, but we recommend slowing things down and exploring small villages along the way. Yuli, one of the largest agricultural towns in the East Rift Valley makes for a great home base.
The Walami Trail
The Walami Trail is the East Coast’s most accessible and most rewarding hike, not to mention it offers visitors a chance to catch a glimpse of much of Yushan National Park’s unique flora and fauna. The road to the trail entrance takes one through the magical Lele River Valley. At first, the road passes through a breathtaking secluded valley of rice paddies. Soon after, it crosses just in front of Nanan Waterfall, a 60 meter-tall drop that runs year-round. Nan-an Waterfall offers facilities that cannot be found at the Walami trailhead.
